Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

A few words about Bearded Dragons...

Lizards from Pogona genus are commonly named as Bearded Dragon. They have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies. They reach a manageable average size of about 18-22 inches (46-56 cms). The average weight is about 10-18 ounces (283-510 gm)

The species of Bearded Dragons get their name from a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head and base of the tail. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are mostly terrestrial, but climb to bask and search for prey.

The most popular among the bearded dragons belongs to the species Pogona Vitticeps. The genus Pogona was known earlier as Amphibolurus. This Bearded Dragons Caresheet will try to provide the basic guidelines on caring the Pogona Vitticeps. However, caring the other genus it's very similar.

Inland bearded dragons inhabit areas from open woodlands to arid scrub and desert regions located in Australia’s interior. They spend a lot of their time perched on logs, rocks or tree trunks, constantly on the look out for food. Bearded dragons are naturally accustomed to hot, dry conditions and need to be kept in an enclosure that supports that environment.

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, and feed on a variety of insects, flowers, greenery and fruits. They are accustomed to extremely harsh environment and thus can eat almost any food that is available. Besides, they can also store nutrients in their huge abdominal fat bodies, and dig into the ground and hibernate for long periods in hostile conditions

The other species, all from the Australian continent, are:

• Pogona brevis.
• Pogona barbata.
• Pogona henrilawsoni,
• Pogona minima.
• Pogona mitchelli.
• Pogona mullarbor.
• Pogona microlepitoda.

Bearded Dragons can puff out the spiny protrusions under their chin beard when they feel threatened or angry, making the dragon look more intimidating and giving them the appearance of having a humanlike beard. They may bob their heads or wave either of their forearms as communication.

While the species of Bearded Dragon is native from Australia, they have been exported worldwide, and due to their convenient size, hardiness, and omnivorous diet, have become very popular reptile pets. They are now one of the most popular pet lizards in the United States (although their popularity is increasing in Japan, Great Britain and Europe too).

Do Bearded Dragons Make Good Pets?

Bearded Dragons generally are very tame and very friendly. They are one of the most friendly, outgoing, and docile lizards. Bearded dragons have a four chamber stomach so you can handle them even just after they have eaten, unlike other reptiles such as snakes.

Bearded dragons make some of the best reptile pets. They have the friendly personality of a iguana, but are only about one third of the length. They have a wide range of interesting and entertaining behavior. If you take the time to get to know the personality of your bearded dragon you will not regret it.

There are several reasons why you should choose a Bearded Dragon as your pet:

The Definitive Guide on Bearded Dragons.

• Bearded Dragons reach a manageable size of about 18-22 inches;
• They are very gentle and loyal;
• They are docile, hardy and tame. They are one of the few reptiles that seem to enjoy this type of attention;
• Bearded Dragons are easy to handle. he more often you hold your bearded dragon, in general the more calm and friendly he will become. however if your dragon seems agitated, it may be a good idea to put him down ;
• They are manageable, due to their small size;
• It’s a very suitable pet if you have kids;
• Bearded dragons are easy to keep and handle, though it is recommended that a beginner owner start with a juvenile rather than a hatchling.

How to Choose a Bearded Dragon

When you decided to buy a Bearded Dragon, whether from a breeder or pet store, you need to look it over carefully. Some things you should notice right away is how alert and active the dragon is. Do not buy a Dragon which looks to be lethargic and is unable to lift its head. The animals should watch you with interest as you walk up to the enclosure and should also have bright and alert eyes.

Remember when choosing your beardy not to compromise the quality of a dragon over price. Saving money by buying the cheapest dragon, could end up costing you a lot of money in vet bills, as well as be frustrated for you. Take your time and look around at all the options instead of deciding on price alone. The cost of a bearded dragon generally falls in the range of $75 to $400, with a average of $175.

Pygmy bearded dragons are most expensive, though strong color variations will fetch up to $400. Enclosure set-up, including heating lamps, UV lights, thermostats, thermometers, shelter, ornaments and surface material can cost between $300 - $1000. The type of breed or morph, as well as seller (breeder, independent or pet store) can all dictate price.

When buying a dragon, look for these good signs Good signs:

No missing toes or tail nip.
A tail curled up towards the head.
An active animal or basking - attentive to its environment.
The eyes are clear and open. There should be no mucus or crust.
Overall alertness. When you pick it up, it should show some movement and alertness.
Especially around hip bones and spine.
Fat tail base.
Head is up and dragon is perky.
There is only one species to a terrarium
Perched under basking light with head up and body raised.
No bones showing.
Rounded body contours.
It is a good sign if there are only a few lizards in a terrarium

This is a good start. If the dragon can claim these signs, then you might have found your new pet.

Also, check for these bad signs Bad signs:

Lethargy.
Any form of excretions around the eyes.
Missing toes, tail nip.
No movement.
Depressions in back of head.
Head and body not raised.
Eyes closed or half closed. Also check for dark circles under the eyes? If so, it’s possible that the dragon is becoming dehydrated.
Hip bones showing, spine prominent.
Fecal smearing around vent.
Open wounds, scabbing.
External parasites.
The conditions of the place where the dragon live: is it a dirty place, Parasites improper lighting and/or heating, feces left in cage, too many dragons crowded in small cage?
Protruding bones at the base of the tail.
Make sure the Dragon is able to walk normally. If it is dragging its back legs it could be indicative of a skeletal weakness.
Look for signs of dehydration. Just pull upwards the skin of the dragon and if it doesn't go back into place, it is dehydrated.

Housing a bearded dragons. The cage and all the accessories bearded dragons need

The cage is obviously the most important part to build a BD habitat. Dimensions vary depending BD size and age and, also, the number of bearded dragons you have. You can buy an already fabricated cage from a pet store or, if you already are in possession of a larger tank, you can simply section off a portion of the tank for the bearded dragon until the right sizes that will make your friend feel comfortable.

Bearded dragons can be housed in a variety of enclosures as long as their basic requirements are met. All glass aquaria with wire tops are commonly used and are inexpensive to obtain. Custom built enclosures are also very popular and can be sized appropriately.

The enclosure should have a basking spot with temperatures ranging from 90 to 105 degrees Fahrenheit, which can be provided by an overhead light in a reflective hood. Under tank heating can be used for night time use, supplied by a heating pad or tape. The enclosure should be large enough to allow the lizard to retreat to a cooler area (known as thermoregulation) as needed. A tree branch or log should be supplied for climbing and basking. Popular commercial enclosures are "Glass Aquarium", "Apogee Reptarium "and "Plastic Aquarium".

The first days in his new habitat can cause a lot of stress to the Dragon, and because of this they could refuse to eat for some days. To help them accommodate:

Bearded Dragons Substrates

The substrate (sometimes called flooring) is the material used to line your dragon's housing. In their native environment, Beardies live in sandy desert areas. Playground sand is often used because it is relatively dust free and easy to maintain, although there have been reports of intestinal impaction. Substrates can also include wheat bran (pest free and rated for human consumption), outdoor carpeting, non-stick padded shelf liner, and paper towels. Other good substrates are newspaper, pea rock or aquarium gravel.

Be careful if you use any type of loose substrate when decorating, as many dragons will try to dig under their cage furnishings and can become trapped or crushed if furnishings are not wellplaced. Good substrate should be clean and safe. Be careful of substrates that could cause harm to your dragon.

Materials to Avoid as Substrates:

The following are bad for one main reason - impaction. A lot of stores may try and tell you that they are suitable, they may even be using them themselves, but they are wrong.

Each of the following has been proven to cause impaction and death to Bearded Dragons (as well as other reptiles) and should be avoided:

- Corn Cob: Hard, large and indigestible for Beardies.

- Walnut Shell: It looks harmless enough, but the edges are very sharp and it could kill your dragon very easily. There have been documented impaction deaths in Bearded Dragons from this. Also goes under a variety of brand names, so check package labeling careful before listening to and buying from pet stores.

- Calcisand: The problem with this product is twofold. First, they like the flavor of it and may eat it if they are lacking adequate calcium in their diet. Second, it can clump and form an indigestible bolus in their digestive tract.

- Repti Bark: very fibrous and could easily end up causing impaction and has been known to end up lodged in the vent.

- Original lizard litter (made from the kenfa tree) and Jungle Blend.

Substrates such as mulch, shredded tree bark, or corn cob should not be used as they can hold moisture and promote bacterial growth.

Any of the wood shaving like cedar or pine should also be avoided - cedar had dangerous aromatic oils and pine can get impacted if ingested.

You should be also be very cautious using bleach on Dragon's enclosure, the heat from their lights can cause toxic fumes from the bleach.

Substrates to use:

There are several good substrates. The use of one or another depends of severall factors - like the age of the dragon(s), their numbers and others.

And one very important tip: It is extremely important to make sure you never use sand in your beardy' s cage until they are bigger then 6 inches in length - not including the tail.

Feeding a Bearded Dragon

Normally, bearded dragons are omnivorous, meaning that they eat both animal and plant matter. Any food items that your bearded dragons eat should respect clear conditions, to avoid impaction and/or leg paralysis. There are also some foods you shouldn’t feed your pet.

Recommended greens: Alfalfa Pellets, Bok Choy, Chicory, Clover, Collard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Escarole, Kale, Mustard Greens, Parsley, Spinach-Only Occasionally, Beet Greens-Only Occasionally, Swiss Chard, Turnip Greens

Recommended Vegetables: Acorn Squash, Bell Pepper, Broccoli, Butternut Squash, Frozen Mixed Vegetables, Grated Carrots, Green Beans, Okra, Parsnips, Peas, Snow Peas, Spaghetti Squash, Squash, Sweet Potato, Yellow Squash, Zucchini

A common problem many bearded dragons have is when the dragon refuse to eat veggies. Here are a few tips you can try to convince the pet to eat them:

Recommended fruits: Apple, Apricots, Bananas (With Skin), Dates, Figs, Grapes, Kiwi, Melon, Papaya, Peaches, Plums, Raspberry, Strawberries, Tomatoes

Insects and worms: You can use roaches, mealworms, waxworms, grasshoppers, silkworms, katydids, moths, butterflies, flies, beetles, mayflies (shadflies) but must be very careful. Roaches can be quite large and too tough for Beardies. Mealworms should only be used if they are white and freshly moulted, because they have very thick indigestible skins and could cause impaction. Superworms are a better choice as they have a greater meat to chitin shelling ratio. Waxworms are much too rich to be used for anything other than occasional treats and too many will lead to such complications as fatty liver disease or kidney failure in later years.

A good starting point on finding more about bearded dragons is the Bearded Dragons Newsletter. You can learn a lot of usefull tricks about them. If you have a burning question about Bearded Dragons just enter it bellow and you'll get your question answered in the newsletter.

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